Climbing clinic
Question from Tim - 3rd Feb 2008
Question:
I have been climbing for a good 2 years now and can consistently climb up to V2/V3 boulder problems but very recently have had problems climbing above that.
Most of the time I have used a mixture of a lot of power and (what I would call) a moderate mix of technique.
However, I was wondering what I could do to improve and progress and what would be the best way to develop my technique?
Answer:
It is obviously hard to advise you on your technique without seeing you climb, but it is great that you realize this is an area you need to work on. It sounds like you feel your power isn’t holding you back, it’s how to utilise it; here a few principles.
• Start at the beginning! Go back to doing easier problems and try to do them in the best style possible. Work them a few times and get to the point where you can climb them with little or no effort; this will start to teach your body how to climb efficiently. If you don’t learn your technique on easier stuff, you will never be able to apply it to harder problems.
• Try to incorporate egyptians and straight arm techniques. On steeper ground these are crucial. If you turn sideways to the wall and use the edges of your shoes, then lever up on your shoulder joint, rather than being more front-on and having to really pull with your bicep. This can make moves that seem utterly desperate, really quite doable.
• Finally, learn to climb positively and relatively quickly when you are bouldering. Try not to fanny around on moves. Be decisive, when you get a hold know what you are going to do and get on with it.
Bouldering obviously differs from routes in this way, especially trad. A methodical approach is needed for routes but bouldering requires a snappier, positive ‘no nonsense, get on with it’ style.
For the harder problems you aspire to, this will be crucial. You cannot hang around on holds as you will instantly power out. The way forward is to get a hold (making sure you are holding it in the most efficient way possible), sort your feet quickly and go!
I hope this helps.
Here is another little bonus one from Tim:
Question:
I also started to set routes at my local Climbing Wall and I'm starting to find that most of my routes, although varying in difficulty, tend to include the same sorts of moves even if I make a conscious effort not to include them. There is a mini bouldering competition coming up and I want to set a few varied and good routes for it. Any tips?
Answer:
Try to select holds that it is not possible to do the sorts of moves you favour. Utilise sections of the wall that you steer clear of, maybe there are some features that you can create some funky weirdness around.
People like problems that make them think. A problem that only has a few holds on but can be climbed using technique (and is not too reachy- hard on an indoor bouldering wall).
As you are discovering, there is a real art to setting indoor routes and problems. It is not something that anyone can pick up and do. It’s good that you are thinking about how to make things different. If your wall has any volumes, these can really add another dimension to problem setting.
Think about features you find outside and try to replicate with holds; for example a layback. You can have the holds all facing one way, with judiciously placed footholds, this would have to be climbed sideways as if you were on a layback crack or an arête.
Have fun and get creative.